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Top 10 Chilean fine wines

We count down Chile’s highest-scoring fine wines as part of a look at the country’s growing reputation for world-class reds.

Apalta is a sub-region of the Colchagua Valley in Chile, and home to a number of the country’s top wines

Chile’s position as a truly renowned and serious fine wine producer is still a work in progress.

The country rocketed into the collective conscious of trade and consumer alike in a very short space of time and is now one of the market’s stalwarts.

However, like most New World countries, the rapid rise built on reliability and accessibility has left the other messages about terroir and history to catch up.

But they are, steadily, and have been helped by the enthusiastic research into soils and exploration of regionality that have been covered frequently in the pages of the drinks business.

As Giles Burke-Gaffney, buying director for Justerini & Brooks, states in the September edition, out next week: “Track record and history is very important to serious wine drinkers and collectors, and these are things that can take an incredibly long time to build up.

“This is Chile’s main battle when it comes to persuading clients to spend more money on its wines.”

But, he adds: “They are headed in the right direction – in terms of discovering new sub-regions that suit certain grapes and give specific characteristics to the wines.”

He concludes that Old World producers starting projects and investing in Chilean wines will be a great help and, as will be shown, this is happening.

A quick search among Chile’s best producers soon reveals myriad wines based on characteristics such as grape variety, region or specific vineyard – or all three ideally and what will also become apparent is that these are wines for ageing too – another important trait in anything claiming to be fine wine.

Another striking fact is that so many of the wines listed here are based on or at least use Chile’s “native” Carmenere, a grape sometimes rather maligned but also championed by the likes of Peter Richards MW and Tim Atkin MW.

Not that Chile’s aptitude for growing the big international grapes should be ignored. At a recent seminar on Chilean wines run by Santa Rita, Australian consultant Brian Croser even voiced the opinion that Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is even more distinctive than Napa Cabernet and pointed to the main varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Cabernet Franc as “Chile’s backbone”.

For simplicity’s sake, the top wines here are based on Wine Advocates’ best scoring Chilean wines at 95 points and above.

It’s a wholly imperfect method of judging but convenient. Do see the extra page at the end for a list of other top wineries in Chile and another brief attempt at a “top 10” this time using scores gleaned from Jancis Robinson MW’s Purple Pages.

For more on Chile, its fine wine and wider industry, see the September issue of the drinks business.

Track record the “main battle” for Chile

Chile’s main obstacle to being taken seriously as a fine wine producer is not quality but rather its limited track record, believes Justerini & Brooks’ buying director Giles Burke-Gaffney.

“Track record and history is very important to serious wine drinkers and collectors, and these are things that can take an incredibly long time to build up,” remarked Burke-Gaffney, who was promoted last month to head up the fine wine merchants’ buying department. “This is Chile’s main battle when it comes to persuading clients to spend more money on its wines.”

In a bid to address this issue, several of Chile’s older producers have begun to host vertical tastings to show off the ageing potential of their top wines. Last year saw Santa Rita host a UK tasting of its top wine, Casa Real, which took the trade right back to its first vintage in 1989.

Errazuriz has also adapted the benchmark tasting series it has embraced following the success of its famous 2004 “Berlin tasting”. In 2011 the producer introduced a similarly successful vertical tasting of the Seña brand back to its first vintage in 1995, which saw these wines pitched against equivalent vintages of Bordeaux first growths and Super Tuscans.

Explaining the reason for this vertical exercise, which has since been repeated in other markets after its Hong Kong debut, Errazuriz CEO Felipe de la Jara acknowledged: “the ageing potential of Chilean wines has always been a big issue in front of the traditional wine regions.”

However, Errazuriz’s chief winemaker Francisco Baettig suggested that this problem is steadily being addressed. “Producers didn’t used to keep old vintages of their wines in the past as the European producers systematically do since ages ago,” he remarked, “but the modern Chilean wine-industry has begun to do so, because wineries know their wines have great ageing potential.”

Carolina Wine Brands is another company that has now built up a sufficient collection of back vintages for its icon wine, Santa Carolina VSC, which was first produced in 2002, to introduce the vertical tasting format.

Having already held two of these events for the Brazilian trade, CWB marketing manager Barbara Lewin raised the possibility of replicating this approach in the UK soon “if the market permits.” In any case, she confirmed, “these are the kind of activities Carolina wants to do to promote Chilean wines.”

While many of Chile’s producers find that the UK remains a challenging customer for their most expensive wines, there is recognition that this market can still play a pivotal role in bringing these products to the attention of less price sensitive nations, especially those in the Far East.

As Lewin pointed out, “Asian markets don’t have many well known critics so they continue to look to the West. Events in the UK can help in other markets.”

A more detailed look at recent developments within the Chilean wine industry and the country’s UK performance will appear in a special focus within September’s issue of the drinks business.

Oregon shines at IPNC 2012

Oregon proved its quality on the world stage, along with its collaborative spirit, as nearly 700 visitors descended on McMinnville for the 26th International Pinot Noir Celebration at the weekend.

Among the mix of consumers and trade were almost 70 Pinot Noir producers from countries including Burgundy, California, Canada, Chile and New Zealand.

“I believe there is a truth in Pinot Noir that you cannot find in any other wine, with the possible exception of Riesling,” insisted Allen Meadows, author of BurgHound, who stood in as keynote speaker after a last minute cancellation by Sex And The City star – and Walla Walla vineyard owner – Kyle MacLachlan.

“Pinot Noir is the messenger but not the message,” Meadows summed up, before a three-day programme got underway, which despite its Willamette Valley setting proved its international credentials with seminars reaching in focus right across the Pinot producing world.

Highlights included a retrospective tasting with Jacques Lardière, who retires this year after 42 years as winemaker for Louis Jadot. Lardiére also took part in an in-depth Burgundy seminar chaired by Meadows, which featured family representatives from Maison Ambroise, Domaine Henri Gouges and Domaine Lécheneaut.

Despite the presence of big names from Burgundy, the age-worthy nature of many Oregon wines was particularly apparent. In addition to the evidence from wines poured during the various dinners, Oregon’s maturation potential was highlighted in a tasting co-hosted by Michael McNeill of California’s Hanzell and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains AVA of the northern Willamette Valley.

A full report examining the evolution and identity of Oregon Pinot Noir, together with the growing reputation of its white varieties will appear in a future issue of the drinks business.

Chile beats Bordeaux in blind tasting

Chilean wine Seña has beaten Bordeaux first growths and top Italian estates in a blind tasting in London.

Echoing the fist tasting of its kind held last year in Hong Kong, the tasting pitted a vertical of Seña from 1995 to 2010 against international competitors in the shape of Lafite, Margaux, Sassicaia and Tignanello.

When the scores were added up at the end, it was found that Seña’s 2008 and 2010 had taken first and second place respectively, with the Lafite – 1995 – in last place.

Speaking to the drinks business, Eduardo Chadwick said that he had wanted to “expand” the tasting following the Hong Kong experiment “and again the results were wonderful,” he said.

He also pointed out that the gap between the top two wines and the joint third places, which were taken by 2005 Sassicaia and 2001 Margaux, “so they were clear favourites.”

The tasting held further echoes of a tasting in 2010 when Chilean wines performed well against first growths and top Italian and Napa Valley estates.

The full results with each wine’s scores were:

Seña 2008 – 81

Seña 2010 – 80

Sassicaia 2005 – 75

Margaux 2001 – 75

Seña 2001 – 73

Tignanello 2008 – 57

Seña 2005 – 52

Seña 1997 – 48

Seña 1995 – 43

Lafite 1995 – 31

The Proust Questionnaire: Adolfo Hurtado

Adolfo Hurtado is chief winemaker of Cono Sur. He lives in Santiago, Chile, with his wife and four children.

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Relaxing in a secluded spot in the countryside with good food, my family around me and my bicycle near by.

What is your greatest fear?

To lose what I have.

Which living person do you most admire?

The Pope – his connection with God is so strong.

What is your greatest extravagance?

I’m the most common guy you could meet, but I did spend £5,000 on a mountain bike once.

What is your current state of mind?

Optimistic – I’m always looking to the future and pushing for more. I believe you can achieve anything you set your mind to with hard work.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Super, it’s in your hands.

What or who is the greatest love of your life?

My daughter, Constanza.

When and where were you happiest?

Riding my bike along the beach on a quiet Sunday morning.

Which talent would you most like to have?

I’m a frustrated singer, I’d love to be able to sing like Julio Iglesias.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I’d like an extra few centimetres of height.

What do you consider your greatest achievement?

Creating my family.

Where would you most like to live?

A city with a beach – Barcelona.

What is your most treasured possession?

My health.

What is your most marked characteristic?

Passion, and being a workaholic.

Who are your favorite writers?

Isabel Allende, Ken Follett and Ildefonso Falcone.

Who is your hero of fiction?

Superman.

What is it that you most dislike?

Blood. I’m terrified of it. I faint if I ever have to have an injection.

Who would be your ideal dinner party guests and what wines would you serve them?

Napoleon, Patsy Kensit and Mr. Spock – I’d serve them JJ Prum Mosel Riesling and Domaine Jacques Prieur Pinot Noir.

What is your greatest regret?

Not living abroad in my youth. I would have liked to have lived in Spain.

What is your motto

Live each day as if it were your last.

Week in pictures

A room with a view – azure sky at Bollinger HQ in Aÿ

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